The sensuous kiss of pear heaven

Maybe it’s the voluptuous curve, the coy blush on its rounded cheek. Maybe it’s the firm, smooth flesh that feels nearly creamy against the tongue. Or perhaps it’s the fact that the pear is one of the few fruits that quietly demands your utter attention to its readiness; a day too early, and it’s not quite ready. Several hours too late, and the moment has passed. Whatever the reason, the pear exudes a deep, understated sensuality. More modest than the fig, less flashy than the mango, it has captivated epicures for thousands of years.

The Romans were among the first to recognize their quiet allure when they used early grafting techniques to cultivate
more than 50 varieties of the fruit. Pears quickly spread to other parts of Europe, where they were embraced by royalty and commonfolk alike. The Bartlett pear—the most popular variety—crossed the Atlantic Ocean during the first wave of colonization, then traversed the New World during the California Gold Rush to land on the West coast. Other pear varieties soon followed.

Now, more than 5,000 varieties of pear are grown throughout the world, varying widely in juiciness, perfume and texture--from the round, soft Comice or the ruby-hued red d’Anjou to the petite and impossibly sweet Seckel and the beautiful Forelle—smaller even than the Seckel, with a soft cream color and a beautiful blush. All are members of the rose family,
which perhaps accounts for their subtle perfume and flowery flavor.

Most pears are best suited for eating, but some, like the Bosc and Bartlett, are ideal for cooking—poached in marsala and cinnamon, baked with almonds and vanilla in a fragrant tart, sliced and sautéed in butter and sweet spices, or pressed into perry, a traditional alcoholic beverage made by fermenting pear juice.

Much of the pear’s history has been not only culinary, but also medicinal in nature. Ayurvedic medicine prizes the pear for its ability to enhance fertility. Traditional Chinese Medicine recommends pears for detoxifying the body and cooling excess heat. Modern research suggests equally compelling uses: pears are superior sources of vitamin C and copper, antioxidants that help protect cells from free radical damage and, ultimately, disease. Specifically, a high consumption of pears and other fruits can reduce your risk of cancer, heart disease and other illnesses.

The best way to eat a pear: perfectly ripe, fresh and out of your hand. Other serving ideas: drape slices of Comice pears over a salad of frisée, Stilton cheese and roasted pecans; add slices of Bosc pear to cheese sandwiches; combine Seckel pears with pomegranate seeds and chopped hazelnuts; or pair quartered d’Anjou pears with wedges of d’Affinois, Comté, Irish cheddar and Jarlsberg.

But whatever you do, study your pears carefully, prodding gently, and at that moment of peak juiciness, take a bite and close your eyes . . . And then try the simply sensuous recipes below, for a little slice of pear heaven.

Frisée and Roasted Pear Salad with Goat Feta and Pomegranate Seeds
Serves 4
2 medium red d’Anjou pears
1 tablespoon ghee or butter, softened
2 tablespoons honey
2 teaspoons freshly cracked black peppercorns
2 small heads frisée lettuce, cored, washed and dried
1 tablespoon walnut oil
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon high-quality balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon minced shallots
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup pomegranate seeds
4 ounces goat feta cheese
1/2 cup toasted pecans

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
Halve pears lengthwise and core. In a small bowl, combine ghee or butter, honey and black pepper. Spread over pear halves, then place cut side down on a glass casserole and roast for 30 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from oven and let cool.

While pears are roasting, in a small bowl, whisk together walnut oil, mustard, balsamic vinegar and shallots. Add olive oil in a steady stream, whisking, until emulsified. Season with salt and pepper. Place frisée in a medium bowl and drizzle with just enough oil and vinegar mixture to lightly coat leaves; toss to mix. Divide frisée among four individual salad plates. Top each with pomegranate seeds, feta cheese and pecans. Slice each half of roasted pear lengthwise into four sections, arrange over top of salads, and serve immediately.

Honey-Vanilla Poached Pears with Raspberry Sauce
Serves 4
4 medium Bartlett pears
2 cups white wine
2 cups water
3/4 cup honey plus 2 tablespoons
2 whole vanilla beans, split lengthwise
3 cups frozen raspberries, slightly thawed
1 tablespoon framboise
1 teaspoon vanilla
Fresh raspberries for garnish, if desired
Mint leaves for garnish, if desired

Core pears from the bottom, using the small end of a melon baller, to leave stem intact. Carefully peel the whole pear, using a potato peeler or a small, sharp paring knife. Cut a thin slice off the bottom of the pears, to allow
them to stand up. Set aside.

In a large saucepan, combine wine, water, 3/4 cup honey and vanilla beans, and bring to a boil. Carefully place pears in boiling liquid. Simmer, uncovered, for 20 minutes, rotating pears several times to ensure even cooking, until pears are tender but still firm. Remove from liquid using a slotted spoon, and transfer to a plate. Refrigerate.

While pears are chilling, place raspberries in a blender or food processor. Puree until smooth, then press through a sieve to remove seeds. In a small saucepan, combine raspberry puree, remaining 2 tablespoons honey and framboise. Simmer for 5 minutes to blend flavors and thicken slightly. Remove from heat and chill (may be made a day ahead of time.)
To serve, divide raspberry sauce among four dessert plates. Place one pear in the center of each plate and garnish with fresh raspberries and mint leaves, if desired. Serve with ice cream, whipped cream, mascarpone or vanilla custard.

Pear, Fig and Ginger Chutney
Makes 3 cups
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 cups chopped yellow onion
3 medium Bartlett pears, cored and chopped
1/2 cup chopped dried figs
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
1/4 cup honey
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons peeled and diced fresh ginger root
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
4 whole cloves

In a medium saucepan, heat oil and sauté onions over medium-low heat until tender, about 7 minutes. Add remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring frequently, or until mixture begins to thicken. Remove cloves and discard. Serve at room temperature, or store, refrigerated, in a tightly sealed glass container.