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We love cookbooks. We love recipes in magazines,
and articles on how to choose and prepare the
healthiest food. Don’t get me wrong: I’m
all for education in culinary and nutritional
topics; it’s how I make my living. At some
point, though, it’s inspiring to rely on
an internal compass rather than external directions.
Cooking and food preparation is the most natural,
instinctive activity in the world, right up there
with nest-building and baby-making.
I had baby artichokes for dinner the other night.
We let them sit in a marinade of grapefruit juice,
rosemary, olive oil and black pepper, then grilled
them along with slices of ruby grapefruit. It
was elegant, delicious, and had nothing to do
with recipes or menu planning. It was just practical:
the baby artichokes at the market were beautiful,
and I had two grapefruits languishing in the bottom
of the fridge, right beside a handful of still-good
rosemary just beginning to brown at the tips.
Cooking by availability and intuition –
shopping the market, choosing produce that looks
fresh and appealing, and then combining it with
ingredients on hand, according to taste and personal
preference – is perhaps the oldest and most
authentic way of food prep. My Southern grandmothers
cooked this way, without recipes or elaborate
meal planning. They simply gathered vegetables
from their garden, combined them with ingredients
on hand, and added a pinch of this and a dash
of that until it tasted good. At the end, it was
invariably a feast.
Cooking without a recipe requires only a little
skill, plus a lot of imagination, and a willingness
to be bold and inventive. Some hints to get you
started:
Head to local farmer’s markets.
That’s where you’ll find an abundance
of fresh, seasonal produce. But don’t write
off our local grocery stores; Whole Foods can’t
be beat for its high-quality organic produce selection
and vast array of herbs, spices, oils, nuts, cheeses
and specialty items. Vitamin Cottage has wildly
competitive prices and a full selection of organic
produce. And some mainstream grocers are doing
a pretty good job of offering more organic and
local produce.
Start with color. It will be
one of your main guides for choosing ingredients.
Begin with one main ingredient – asparagus,
for example – then look around the market
or produce section for seasonal produce that would
compliment their bright-green color. Look for
what appeals to you - the pale hue of green onions,
for example, and the soft tan-gray of wild morels.
You could sauté these in olive oil, then
top with a little black sea salt and shaved Parmigiano.
How would you cook them? Maybe make them into
a soup with a light broth, a little cream and
nutmeg? Or sauté them in sesame oil with
garlic and ginger, and top them with black sesame
seeds? You get the idea; anything is possible.
Don’t overlook fruit; pears, berries or
citrus fruits compliment many vegetable dishes
with a subtle, fresh sweetness.
Try something new. The first
time I saw a rutabaga, I was consumed with curiosity.
I purchased the monstrosity, which looked something
like a mutant potato. At a loss, I chopped it
up, boiled it and served it with butter, salt
and pepper. It was delicious—sweet, clean,
with a mildly nutty, cabbage like flavor. Try
something new – celery root, cardoons, chanterelle
mushrooms, tomatillos, fiddlehead ferns, chayote
squash, kumquats. Ask for cooking suggestions
at the market. Start by seasoning simply with
a little salt and pepper, and branch out from
there. You’ll know.
Stock up on basic cooking ingredients.
An artist needs the proper paints, brushes and
canvas upon which to express her creativity. You’ll
need an assortment of oils, vinegars, salts, spices,
fresh herbs and other ingredients, to make the
most of your cooking artistry. Basics include:
• A good olive oil and grapeseed or other
neutral cooking oil
• Balsamic, sherry and red wine vinegar
• Kosher or coarse salt, sea salt and, if
you like, a finishing salt, such as fin de sel,
to be added after cooking.
• Seven or eight spices you love (try cumin,
cinnamon, cayenne, chili powder, black pepper,
white pepper, paprika and curry powder)
and a wide selection of fresh herbs, garlic and
onions.
• A selection of dried beans, lentils, grains,
nuts and seeds.
• Canned tomatoes, canned beans and a good,
basic broth or stock.
Start with a great recipe. It
sounds counter-intuitive, but having guidelines
for a dish you love—pasta, salad, soup—creates
a basic framework, the scaffolding upon which
you can lay your own original design. A basic
soup recipe, for example, might be 6 cups of broth,
2 cups of vegetables, 1 cup of beans, 2 tablespoons
of oil or butter, and 1 tablespoon of fresh herbs.
Within these basic guidelines, you can then be
wildly creative.
Find a recipe you love, figure out the framework,
and then make your own additions and substitutions.
Try this salad recipe to get you started:
Recipe
Fill-in-the-blank Spring Salad
Serves 4
6 cups greens, in any combination (arugula, baby
oak leaf, bibb, Romaine, chicory, Belgian endive,
radicchio, mache)
1/4 cup oil (olive, coconut, sesame, walnut, or
other nut or seed oil)
2 tablespoons vinegar (balsamic, sherry, red wine,
champagne, apple cider, rice)
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard (optional, if it feels
right)
1 garlic clove, finely minced (optional, if it
feels right)
1 tablespoon minced fresh herbs (basil, thyme,
rosemary, marjoram, oregano, chives)
1 cup salad vegetables (grated carrots, beets
or cabbage, thinly sliced fennel, cucumber, radishes,
green beans, peas, corn, tomatoes, jicama, broccoli,
asparagus, celery)
1/4 cup nuts (walnuts, almonds, cashews, pecans,
pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds)
1/4 cup cheese (feta, shaved Asiago, blue cheese,
manchego, chevre or other)
Tear greens into bite-sized pieces; wash and spin
or pat dry thoroughly. Set aside.
In a small bowl, combine oil, vinegar and herbs.
Whisk together. Taste, and adjust ingredients,
adding more oil, vinegar or herbs if it seems
necessary. Add 1 teaspoon mustard, 1 teaspoon
honey, and/or 1 finely minced garlic clove, if
it feels right to do so. Season to taste with
salt and pepper.
In a large salad bowl, combine salad greens, salad
vegetables and nuts. Toss with your hands. Drizzle
about half the dressing over salad; toss again
with hands, adding more dressing if salad feels
“dry.” Divide among four individual
salad plates, top with cheese, and serve.
Lisa Turner is a chef and food writer in
Boulder. She also teaches cooking and nutrition
classes at Bauman College, and offers catering
and nutrition consulting. Visit TheHealthyGourmet.net
or InspiredEating.com
for more details.
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