| Maybe
it’s the voluptuous curve, the coy blush on its rounded
cheek. Maybe it’s the firm, smooth flesh that feels nearly
creamy against
the tongue. Or perhaps it’s the fact that the pear is one
of the few fruits that quietly demands your utter attention to
its readiness; a day too early, and it’s not quite ready.
Several hours too late, and the moment has passed. Whatever the
reason, the pear exudes a deep, understated sensuality. More modest
than the fig, less flashy than the mango, it has captivated epicures
for thousands of years.
The Romans were among the first to recognize their quiet allure
when they used early grafting techniques to cultivate
more than 50 varieties of the fruit. Pears quickly spread to other
parts of Europe, where they were embraced by royalty and commonfolk
alike. The Bartlett pear—the most popular variety—crossed
the Atlantic Ocean during the first wave of colonization, then
traversed the New World during the California Gold Rush to land
on the West coast. Other pear varieties soon followed.
Now, more than 5,000 varieties of pear are grown throughout the
world, varying widely in juiciness, perfume and texture--from
the round, soft Comice or the ruby-hued red d’Anjou to the
petite and impossibly sweet Seckel and the beautiful Forelle—smaller
even than the Seckel, with a soft cream color and a beautiful
blush. All are members of the rose family,
which perhaps accounts for their subtle perfume and flowery flavor.
Most pears are best suited for eating, but some, like the Bosc
and Bartlett, are ideal for cooking—poached in marsala and
cinnamon, baked with almonds and vanilla in a fragrant tart, sliced
and sautéed in butter and sweet spices, or pressed into
perry, a traditional alcoholic beverage made by fermenting pear
juice.
Much of the pear’s history has been not only culinary, but
also medicinal in nature. Ayurvedic medicine prizes the pear for
its ability to enhance fertility. Traditional Chinese Medicine
recommends pears for detoxifying the body and cooling excess heat.
Modern research suggests equally compelling uses: pears are superior
sources of vitamin C and copper, antioxidants that help protect
cells from free radical damage and, ultimately, disease. Specifically,
a high consumption of pears and other fruits can reduce your risk
of cancer, heart disease and other illnesses.
The best way to eat a pear: perfectly ripe, fresh and out of your
hand. Other serving ideas: drape slices of Comice pears over a
salad of frisée, Stilton cheese and roasted pecans; add
slices of Bosc pear to cheese sandwiches; combine Seckel pears
with pomegranate seeds and chopped hazelnuts; or pair quartered
d’Anjou pears with wedges of d’Affinois, Comté,
Irish cheddar and Jarlsberg.
But whatever you do, study your pears carefully, prodding gently,
and at that moment of peak juiciness, take a bite and close your
eyes . . . And then try the simply sensuous recipes below, for
a little slice of pear heaven.
Frisée and Roasted Pear Salad with Goat Feta and
Pomegranate Seeds
Serves 4
2 medium red d’Anjou pears
1 tablespoon ghee or butter, softened
2 tablespoons honey
2 teaspoons freshly cracked black peppercorns
2 small heads frisée lettuce, cored, washed and dried
1 tablespoon walnut oil
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon high-quality balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon minced shallots
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup pomegranate seeds
4 ounces goat feta cheese
1/2 cup toasted pecans
Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
Halve pears lengthwise and core. In a small bowl, combine ghee
or butter, honey and black pepper. Spread over pear halves, then
place cut side down on a glass casserole and roast for 30 minutes,
or until golden brown. Remove from oven and let cool.
While pears are roasting, in a small bowl, whisk together walnut
oil, mustard, balsamic vinegar and shallots. Add olive oil in
a steady stream, whisking, until emulsified. Season with salt
and pepper. Place frisée in a medium bowl and drizzle with
just enough oil and vinegar mixture to lightly coat leaves; toss
to mix. Divide frisée among four individual salad plates.
Top each with pomegranate seeds, feta cheese and pecans. Slice
each half of roasted pear lengthwise into four sections, arrange
over top of salads, and serve immediately.
Honey-Vanilla Poached Pears with Raspberry
Sauce
Serves 4
4 medium Bartlett pears
2 cups white wine
2 cups water
3/4 cup honey plus 2 tablespoons
2 whole vanilla beans, split lengthwise
3 cups frozen raspberries, slightly thawed
1 tablespoon framboise
1 teaspoon vanilla
Fresh raspberries for garnish, if desired
Mint leaves for garnish, if desired
Core pears from the bottom, using the small end of a melon baller,
to leave stem intact. Carefully peel the whole pear, using a potato
peeler or a small, sharp paring knife. Cut a thin slice off the
bottom of the pears, to allow
them to stand up. Set aside.
In a large saucepan, combine wine, water, 3/4 cup honey and vanilla
beans, and bring to a boil. Carefully place pears in boiling liquid.
Simmer, uncovered, for 20 minutes, rotating pears several times
to ensure even cooking, until pears are tender but still firm.
Remove from liquid using a slotted spoon, and transfer to a plate.
Refrigerate.
While pears are chilling, place raspberries in a blender or food
processor. Puree until smooth, then press through a sieve to remove
seeds. In a small saucepan, combine raspberry puree, remaining
2 tablespoons honey and framboise. Simmer for 5 minutes to blend
flavors and thicken slightly. Remove from heat and chill (may
be made a day ahead of time.)
To serve, divide raspberry sauce among four dessert plates. Place
one pear in the center of each plate and garnish with fresh raspberries
and mint leaves, if desired. Serve with ice cream, whipped cream,
mascarpone or vanilla custard.
Pear, Fig and Ginger Chutney
Makes 3 cups
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 cups chopped yellow onion
3 medium Bartlett pears, cored and chopped
1/2 cup chopped dried figs
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
1/4 cup honey
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons peeled and diced fresh ginger root
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
4 whole cloves
In a medium saucepan, heat oil and sauté onions over medium-low
heat until tender, about 7 minutes. Add remaining ingredients
and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for
30 minutes, stirring frequently, or until mixture begins to thicken.
Remove cloves and discard. Serve at room temperature, or store,
refrigerated, in a tightly sealed glass container. |