Lumpy, bumpy, often covered with dirt, the lowly sweet potato seems wretchedly unsophisticated in the glamorous world of leafy greens. Humble and dense as they are, they’re not as immediately alluring as tender stalks of baby asparagus; lined up next to the elegant endive, they’re downright homely. But hailing from deep within the mysteries of the earth, sweet potatoes
are nurturing and reliable in a way other foods of a more frivolous nature could never hope to match.

Part of their ingenuous charm is their solid lineup of nutrients. Sweet potatoes contain a wealth of vitamins and minerals, including vitamins A, C and K, potassium and B vitamins, as well as fiber, which reduces the risk of cancers of the colon and rectum, and reduces cholesterol. They’re rich in beta carotene, a potent antioxidant that helps prevent heart disease and cancer, especially breast cancer and cancers of the bladder, cervix, prostate and lungs. A carotenoid-rich diet regulates blood sugar levels, and may reduce the risk of insulin resistance. Beta carotene also protects against diseases of the eye, including macular degeneration.

Nourishing as they are, the culinary appeal of the sweet potato is discounted-- the regrettable result of a long history of faulty preparation techniques. They’re forever saddled with a longstanding and unfortunate alliance with marshmallows, in the clumsy casseroles too familiar to holiday tables, or (worse) burdened by Karo syrup in the usually cloying and graceless sweet potato pie.

Handled well, though, sweet potatoes have a rich, sweet earthiness unmatched by few other vegetables. Treat them well: cube and slowly roast them, enveloped in olive oil, garlic and minced rosemary, cover them with a comforting blanket of curry-laced coconut milk; or shred them and gently sauté with chopped walnuts, ground cinnamon and cardamom, and other fragrant spices. Or feature them in the earthy, simple recipes below, designed to celebrate this most humble of vegetables.

Honey and Spice Roasted Sweet Potatoes
Serves 2 to 4
Olive oil
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup honey
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/2 teaspoon coarsely-ground black pepper
2 large red–skinned sweet potatoes, cut into 1/2–inch cubes

Preheat oven to 400°F. Lightly coat a large baking sheet with canola oil. In a small saucepan, melt butter; add honey and spices, and stir to mix well. Remove from heat and let cool slightly. Place sweet potatoes on baking sheet and pour honey mixture over them; mix with hands to coat well. Spread mixture in a single layer and roast for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Turn baking sheet around in oven and roast for an additional 15 minutes, or until tender. Remove from oven and serve hot.

Parsnips and Sweet Potatoes with Hazelnuts
Serves 4
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small red onion, minced
1 pound sweet potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 pound parsnips, cut into 1/4-inch slices
2 small cloves garlic
1 tablespoon fresh thyme
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
1/2 cup chopped hazelnuts
Fresh thyme for garnish, if desired

In a large, heavy skillet, heat oil; add onions and cook, stirring frequently, until just tender, about 3 minutes. Add sweet potatoes and toss or stir to coat with oil. Cover and cook over mediumlow heat for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently; add parsnips and garlic, cover and cook for 7 more minutes, or until just tender, stirring frequently (add a few tablespoons of water, if needed to bottom of pan during cooking). Stir in thyme, white pepper and hazelnuts, and cook for 1 minute longer. Transfer to a serving dish, garnish with fresh thyme sprigs, and serve hot.