| We love cookbooks.
We love recipes in magazines, and articles on how to choose
and prepare the healthiest food. Don’t get me wrong:
I’m all for education in culinary and nutritional
topics; it’s how I make my living. At some point,
though, it’s inspiring to rely on an internal compass
rather than external directions. Cooking and food preparation
is the most natural, instinctive activity in the world,
right up there with nest-building and baby-making.
I had baby artichokes for dinner the other night. We let
them sit in a marinade of grapefruit juice, rosemary,
olive oil and black pepper, then grilled them along with
slices of ruby grapefruit. It was elegant, delicious,
and had nothing to do with recipes or menu planning. It
was just practical: the baby artichokes at the market
were beautiful, and I had two grapefruits languishing
in the bottom of the fridge, right beside a handful of
still-good rosemary just beginning to brown at the tips.
Cooking by availability and intuition – shopping
the market, choosing produce that looks fresh and appealing,
and then combining it with ingredients on hand, according
to taste and personal preference – is perhaps the
oldest and most authentic way of food prep. My Southern
grandmothers cooked this way, without recipes or elaborate
meal planning. They simply gathered vegetables from their
garden, combined them with ingredients on hand, and added
a pinch of this and a dash of that until it tasted good.
At the end, it was invariably a feast.
Cooking without a recipe requires only a little skill,
plus a lot of imagination, and a willingness to be bold
and inventive. Some hints to get you started:
Head to local farmer’s markets.
That’s where you’ll find an abundance of fresh,
seasonal produce. But don’t write off our local
grocery stores; Whole Foods can’t be beat for its
high-quality organic produce selection and vast array
of herbs, spices, oils, nuts, cheeses and specialty items.
Vitamin Cottage has wildly competitive prices and a full
selection of organic produce. And some mainstream grocers
are doing a pretty good job of offering more organic and
local produce.
Start with color. It will be one of your
main guides for choosing ingredients. Begin with one main
ingredient – asparagus, for example – then
look around the market or produce section for seasonal
produce that would compliment their bright-green color.
Look for what appeals to you - the pale hue of green onions,
for example, and the soft tan-gray of wild morels.
You could sauté these in olive oil, then top with
a little black sea salt and shaved Parmigiano. How would
you cook them? Maybe make them into a soup with a light
broth, a little cream and nutmeg? Or sauté them
in sesame oil with garlic and ginger, and top them with
black sesame seeds? You get the idea; anything is possible.
Don’t overlook fruit; pears, berries or citrus fruits
compliment many vegetable dishes with a subtle, fresh
sweetness.
Try something new. The first time I saw
a rutabaga, I was consumed with curiosity. I purchased
the monstrosity, which looked something like a mutant
potato. At a loss, I chopped it up, boiled it and served
it with butter, salt and pepper. It was delicious—sweet,
clean, with a mildly nutty, cabbage like flavor. Try something
new – celery root, cardoons, chanterelle mushrooms,
tomatillos, fiddlehead ferns, chayote squash, kumquats.
Ask for cooking suggestions at the market. Start by seasoning
simply with a little salt and pepper, and branch out from
there. You’ll know.
Stock up on basic cooking ingredients.
An artist needs the proper paints, brushes and canvas
upon which to express her creativity. You’ll need
an assortment of oils, vinegars, salts, spices, fresh
herbs and other ingredients, to make the most of your
cooking artistry. Basics include:
• A good olive oil and grapeseed or other neutral
cooking oil
• Balsamic, sherry and red wine vinegar
• Kosher or coarse salt, sea salt and, if you like,
a finishing salt, such as fin de sel, to be added after
cooking.
• Seven or eight spices you love (try cumin, cinnamon,
cayenne, chili powder, black pepper, white pepper, paprika
and curry powder) and a wide selection of
fresh herbs, garlic and onions.
• A selection of dried beans, lentils, grains, nuts
and seeds.
• Canned tomatoes, canned beans and a good, basic
broth or stock.
Start with a great recipe. It sounds
counter-intuitive, but having guidelines for a dish you
love—pasta, salad, soup—creates a basic framework,
the scaffolding upon which you can lay your own original
design. A basic soup recipe, for example, might be 6 cups
of broth, 2 cups of vegetables, 1 cup of beans, 2 tablespoons
of oil or butter, and 1 tablespoon of fresh herbs. Within
these basic guidelines, you can then be wildly creative.
Find a recipe you love, figure out the framework, and
then make your own additions and substitutions. Try this
salad recipe to get you started:
Recipe
Fill-in-the-blank Spring Salad
Serves 4
6 cups greens, in any combination (arugula, baby oak leaf,
bibb, Romaine, chicory, Belgian endive, radicchio, mache)
1/4 cup oil (olive, coconut, sesame, walnut, or other
nut or seed oil)
2 tablespoons vinegar (balsamic, sherry, red wine, champagne,
apple cider, rice)
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard (optional, if it feels right)
1 garlic clove, finely minced (optional, if it feels right)
1 tablespoon minced fresh herbs (basil, thyme, rosemary,
marjoram, oregano, chives)
1 cup salad vegetables (grated carrots, beets or cabbage,
thinly sliced fennel, cucumber, radishes, green beans,
peas, corn, tomatoes, jicama, broccoli, asparagus, celery)
1/4 cup nuts (walnuts, almonds, cashews, pecans, pumpkin
seeds, sunflower seeds)
1/4 cup cheese (feta, shaved Asiago, blue cheese, manchego,
chevre or other)
Tear greens into bite-sized pieces; wash and spin or pat
dry thoroughly. Set aside.
In a small bowl, combine oil, vinegar and herbs. Whisk
together. Taste, and adjust ingredients, adding more oil,
vinegar or herbs if it seems necessary. Add 1 teaspoon
mustard, 1 teaspoon honey, and/or 1 finely minced garlic
clove, if it feels right to do so. Season to taste with
salt and pepper.
In a large salad bowl, combine salad greens, salad vegetables
and nuts. Toss with your hands. Drizzle about half the
dressing over salad; toss again with hands, adding more
dressing if salad feels “dry.” Divide among
four individual salad plates, top with cheese, and serve.
Lisa Turner is a chef and food writer in Boulder.
She also teaches cooking and nutrition classes at Bauman
College, and offers catering and nutrition consulting.
Visit TheHealthyGourmet.net
or InspiredEating.com
for more details.
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