| When I was
writing the briefs for this month’s Nexus, I came
across some alarming news: a study by a coalition of food
safety organizations reported that food poisoning extends
far beyond the immediate symptoms, and can result in life-long,
serious consequences, including permanent liver damage,
neurological problems, paralysis, brain damage, mental
retardation and blindness.
What’s worse, children account for half of all
food-borne llnesses in the United States, and are more
likely than adults to be affected by these devastating
long-term consequences. An estimated 87 million people
per year get food poisoning, and 371,000 are hospitalized.
Of those, 5,700 die. It’s enough to make you sick.
And it goes beyond pathogens in our peanut butter. Our
food is riddled with artificial colors and flavors, GMOs,
pesticides, hormones, antibiotics and endocrine disruptors.
Want more numbers? Check these out:
•5: Billions of pounds of pesticides
used in the United States from 2000 to 2001
•91: Percent of tested apples that
still contained pesticide residues
•22.7: Millions of cows that were
treated with added growth hormone.
•17.8: Millions of pounds of antibiotics
used in animals.
•6: Billions of pounds of bisphenol-A
endocrine disruptor produced every year
•93: Percent of adults whose bodies
showed residues of bisphenol-A when tested.
•90: Percent of fish in some areas
of the Southeast United States that are intersex because
of environmental estrogen exposure.
•85: Percent of U.S. corn that’s
genetically modified.
•92: Percent of soybean crops planted
with biotech seed varieties.
Meanwhile, our food is increasingly laced with more
mundane, but nonetheless harmful, compounds like trans-fats
and high-fructose corn syrup. And then there are the events
that can’t be quantified in numbers, like the cruelty
endured by animals raised for food.
After all the news about our troubled food supply, many
of us have lost our appetites.
What are we supposed to eat? In the words of Michael Pollan,
author of the brilliant Omnivore’s Dilemma: eat
food, not much, mostly plants. How this translates to
your plate:
• Fruits and vegetables. They’re
the gold standard for clean food, and should constitute
the bulk of our diets. This is the food upon which we
evolved; our earliest ancestors ate the
leaves, stems, roots, seeds, flowers and fruits of plants.
They don’t require cooking, and they have more antioxidants
than any other food. And since they’re at the bottom
of the food chain, plants have the lowest concentrations
of environmental toxins.
• Grains. We live in a carb-loving
world. But how clean are grains? After the one-two punch
delivered by Food, Inc. and Omnivore’s Dilemma,
cornbashing is de rigueur. But given the joys of a soft,
warm corn tortilla, or the small miracle of fresh, sweet
summer
corn, it’s hard to banish it out of hand. Here’s
the problem: many people seem to be sensitive or outright
allergic to corn, and some suppose that’s because
it’s so prevalent in our food supply. And, as we
saw earlier, corn is overwhelmingly likely to contain
genetically modified organisms. The solution, it seems,
is to eat only whole, organic corn, or minimally processed
organic corn products—like fresh corn tortillas,
or polenta. As for other grains, skip the wheat and processed
grains, and stick to the real thing, like oat
groats, buckwheat, quinoa, amaranth and wild rice.
• Meat: quality and quantity. From
2008 to the first quarter of 2009, the Food Safety Inspection
Service of the USDA recalled more than 1.5 million pounds
of beef, pork and poultry products that were contaminated
with E. coli, listeria and salmonella. Meanwhile,
up to 70 percent of U.S. antibiotics go to healthy animals
raised on industrial farms, to offset crowding and poor
sanitation. And the quality of grain-fed meat is much
lower than
that of grass-fed varieties. If you do eat meat, it is
absolutely imperative that you buy high-quality. Get your
flesh foods from local producers, and choose only organic,
grass-fed beef or buffalo, and organic (pastured is best)
chicken.
• Dairy. Milk, cheese, butter,
yogurt and other dairy products just aren’t clean.
They come from domestic cows, many of which are given
genetically engineered hormones (rBST or rBGH) to increase
their milk production. These hormones are banned in most
countries; only South Africa, Mexico and, shockingly,
the United States still allow them.
All that aside, there’s no compelling reason to
eat dairy; it’s hard to digest, likely to be allergenic,
high in saturated fat, free of fiber, and unnecessary
from a nutritional standpoint. If you’re trying
to get your daily calcium, remember two things: most dark,
leafy greens have as much calcium as milk, and the role
of calcium as a panacea for bone health is being routinely
questioned. If you do eat dairy, buy it from a local farmer.
Purchase a share of a dairy cow. Choose organic milk products
from grass-fed cows.
• Eggs. They’ve gotten lots
of good press lately; but are they clean? Eggs, even the
organic variety, are especially susceptible to salmonella
contamination. If they’re raised conventionally,
they may also contain pesticide residues and antibiotics,
and come from chickens that have been raised in horrifying
living conditions. Cage-free and free-range labels are
palliative at best; they’re uncertified designations,
and don’t guarantee any level of humane treatment.
Even organic eggs may come from chickens that have spent
most of their lives indoors, in crowded conditions, eating
grains—not a chicken’s normal diet. Grain-fed
eggs are higher in cholesterol and saturated fat, and
lower in vitamins A and E, omega-3 fatty acids, and beta
carotene. If you eat eggs, buy them from a small local
farmer who lets them eat grass, or look for Certified
Humane organic eggs, or pasture-raised eggs. Always cook
eggs thoroughly to kill pathogens, and limit your consumption.
• Fish and seafood. In the clean-food
debate, fish is not such a catch after all. If it came
from the ocean, it’s probably full of mercury. If
it came from afar, it’s likely laced with dioxins,
pesticides and polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs). Having
said that, fish is a good source of protein and omega-3
fats. If you do eat it, avoid predatory, top-of-thechain
fish like tuna and swordfish to avoid mercury toxicity;
skip the skin, since it’s a main storage area for
toxins; and get your fish from a clean, reputable market,
with knowledgeable staff that can answer your questions.
Eat fish only once a week, and before you buy, visit the
Environmental Defense Fund’s Seafood Selector page
(edf.org) for safe seafood updates.
• Beans, peas and lentils. Legumes
are one of the cleanest foods around. They are a good
source of protein; they’re high in fiber, low in
fat, and linked with reduced risk of heart disease, diabetes
and cancer. Of course, there’s an exception to every
rule; in
this case, it’s soy. We’ve seen that it’s
likely to be contaminated with GMOs, but even organic
soy has issues. Yes, some studies have suggested that
soy may reduce the risk of osteoporosis, heart disease
and cancer, but as many studies have shown the opposite.
Soy
is rich in hormonally active agents called isoflavones,
which function as a double-edged sword: they can either
inhibit or stimulate the growth of certain kinds of cancer,
depending on dosage and individual genetic makeup. Soy
also contains compounds that block the absorption of minerals
and hamper the action of enzymes that help digest protein.
If you do eat soy, eat it in moderation – about
10 grams a day; choose traditionally fermented forms –
tempeh, miso, tamari or soy sauce; stick to whole forms,
instead of highly processed products like soy cheese;
stay away from soy protein powders,
textured vegetable protein or foods that have added isoflavones;
and use only organic soy.
• Nuts. We grew up nibbling on
nuts, and for the most part, they’re clean sources
of protein and healthy fats. Again, there are exceptions,
and in this case it’s peanuts. They may be sprayed
with pesticides and are susceptible to salmonella. Even
organic peanuts
may be contaminated with aspergillus. This invisible mold
produces compounds called aflatoxins, which are carcinogenic.
It’s such a problem, that some nutritionists advise
never eating peanuts. It has even been suggested that
conventionally grown peanuts are a better choice than
organic, because fungicides reduce the amount of aflatoxin
on peanuts – ridiculous advice, in my opinion. If
you do eat them, follow this clean-peanut advice:
buy vacuum-packed varieties to lessen the amount of exposure
the nuts have had to air, thus limiting the potential
for molds to form. And buy organic, to avoid pesticide
exposure.
Lisa Turner is a chef and food writer in Boulder.
She also teaches cooking and nutrition classes at Bauman
College, and offers catering and nutrition consulting.
Visit TheHealthyGourmet.net
or InspiredEating.com
for more details.
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