My husband, Brian, and I went to Aspen last winter, trying to enjoy this highend ski town on a low-end budget. Brian mentioned this to a fellow skier, who came right back at him: “Well!
She must be a humor writer.” Brian’s response? “No—fantasy is her thing.”

Very funny. I know that Aspen has a reputation as a town where, if you have to ask how much it costs, you don’t belong. But we are living proof that it is possible to take a ski trip in
Aspen without breaking the piggy bank. Our idea of a “budget” getaway wouldn’t work for a Gen-Y couple who can happily stay in hostels or make a meal out of chips and salsa. But if your goal is to avoid the sticker shock of a full luxury getaway, while still traveling in relative style, we’re here to tell you it can be done.

For one thing, there’s no better time to get a bargain than now. With the economy still down, all visitors – even those who aren’t platinum-plated – are being courted with good deals. A ski trip involves three big-ticket essentials: lift tickets, a pillow for your head, and food in the tank. I’ll dish out recommendations on all three, but for our purposes, we’ll skip the pricey private yoga classes and spa treatments. It’s these non-essential add-ons that can tack hundreds (or thousands) onto your holiday budget. As for shopping, if you absolutely must indulge, skip the boutiques and visit the consignment shops selling fancy-brand clothes that line East Hopkins Avenue, or the nearby second-hand shops for home furnishings and outdoor equipment.

And entertainment? Aspen has a hefty economic base, so you’ll find glorious amenities funded by the local taxpayers: the Aspen Art Museum, a skate park, a transportation system connecting all the ski areas, après-ski concerts at the base of Aspen Mountain and even concierge service, where you can get advice on anything you care to ask about (800-525-6200 or 970-925-1220)—all for free. Now, on to the big three.

On the slopes: pricey but posh.
You have to pay to play on Aspen slopes, but the skiing choices here are nonpareil. Four separate ski areas within minutes of downtown (Aspen Mountain, Aspen Highlands, Buttermilk and Snowmass) offer a wide variety of easily accessible terrain. Aspen Highlands is all about challenging the near-expert skier and snow boarder, and the bragging rights cost
nothing extra. The rise at Aspen Mountain, affectionately known as “Ajax” by locals, is one straight shot uphill for 3,267 feet. Buttermilk has excellent trails and ambiance for the gentle
skier, and a terrain park that claims the ESPN Winter X Games. And Snowmass is gigantic, and a perfect choice for families; 36 Disneylands could fit in the same space.

One lift ticket gets you your choice, but it’s pricey: around $100 per day. How to bring the price down? Get old; after 65 discounts apply. Otherwise, the best advice is to buy your tickets at least seven days in advance, ski for four more days (the longer you ski, the deeper the discount), and go for packages of rentals, instruction, and tickets, which offer even more discounts. Call the Aspen Skiing Company at 800-525-6200 to work out the best deal.

Once you’ve paid up, take advantage of some nice amenities. The Ambassadors program offers a free tour of the slopes; simply show up at the top of a lift at Aspen or Snowmass, and
meet your guide for a fun 90 minutes, learning about history, nature, or anything else you care to ask about. Or call in advance (Aspen—970-925-1220, Snowmass 970-925-1220 x 4560), you can reserve the right to make “first tracks” on any given day.

Another option: cross-country skiing and snowshoeing are absolutely free in the right places. You’ll pay to ski cross-country at Ashcroft Ski Touring (www.skiashcroft.com), but there are also 60 kilometers of free groomed trails that connect Aspen to Snowmass, and now Basalt as well, all run by the Aspen/Snowmass Nordic Association (www.aspennordic.org).
The system is serviced by two great centers offering food, rentals, advice, instructions and more. Or stop by the U.S. Forest Service office and pick up descriptions of winter backcountry trails (read: ungroomed, no amenities). I opted for “Government Trail,” which begins at the upper portion of Buttermilk Ski Area.

On a sunny weekend day at the end of February, with no wind and glorious snow, I had the woodlands to myself. I wasn’t entirely certain how far I’d gone, traveling alone through aspen groves and pine forests, following tracks from a day or two ago and watching carefully
for the little blue diamonds that mark the way. I was just beginning to think that lunch would be nice, when I heard a voice. I proceeded another 20 yards to a small hillock, and found myself touching a ski slope with a ski lift cutting across the sky! I was surprised, but not as surprised as the downhill skiers who saw me emerge from the woods. One stopped to chat, and I learned I had gotten all the way to the edge of Snowmass. Thinking this had been a very long trip, he suggested that I could just ski down to the base, and hop a bus back. I took one look at the moguls and said, “No thank you!” I headed happily back, swishing along, and even circumnavigating a frozen lake, feeling as though I were a True Adventurer.

That night I learned just how overblown that “True Adventurer” vision was. We attended a free screening of a movie at the historic Wheeler Opera House, in which “local boys” from
Aspen became ski mountaineers, eventually carrying their skis to 25,000 ft. on Mt. Everest and whizzing back down the north face. Those people are adventurers; I’m just a dilettante.
The point being: I had a “priceless” day, with free skiing followed by a free movie.

Dining on the cheap.
After a hard day on the slopes, a girl’s gotta eat. Aspen has a dozen or more excellent restaurants, many claiming to use fresh, organic and locally sourced ingredients, and to fuse
various cuisines. The prices, of course, are in line with the fabulosity of the cooking. But you can indulge your appetite without blowing your budget. One affordable option: order from the
bar menu, as we did at Cache Cache our first night. I asked the bartender to make me something with bourbon; he didn’t miss a beat, and asked how a drink with Maker’s Mark, Campari, soda and orange juice sounded? Fine, I said. Moments later, I had a personalized
drink that my granddad would have been proud to serve.

That was the beginning of a fun meal— cobb salad and king crab beignets for me, soup and pork tenderloin for Brian—all seasoned with bar repartee. The price, with drinks, tax and tip included? $88. Not exactly cheap eats, but much better than the $150 we would have paid for the simplest dinner in the dining room. The next night we repeated the plan at Rustique, and again had creative and delicious food in a fun environment for just about the same price.

If those prices are still too high, hit a couple of happy hours, which may come with extras such as tortilla pizza (served last year at DishAspen). Forego the bar bill altogether by bringing
your own fixings, buying popcorn for $1.50 from the ever-present popcorn wagon stationed across the street from the Wheeler Opera House, and having cocktail hour around the lodge
fireplace before heading out. Or opt for reasonably priced (and reasonably delicious) food at La Cantina, Little Annie’s Eating House or other lessthan-elegant eateries.

A place to rest your head.
There’s a joke that circulates among locals: “What do you call a snowboarder in Aspen without a girlfriend?” “Homeless.” That sums up the lodging problem in Aspen. We stayed at the St. Moritz, the certified least-expensive option in Aspen proper. While we had a room much like any Best Western for just over $200 per night, this lodge also offers 11 hostel-style, three-bunks-per room arrangements for $59 per person per night. Access to the 100-degree swimming pool, fireplace lounge, and breakfast buffet are all the same, regardless
of room choice. (One upside to budget traveling is that you’ll have the chance to chat with Eastern Europeans, South Americans, and other international travelers who also opt for
non-Ritz accommodations.)

This winter, with the continued economic downturn, prices everywhere in town are way down, making your choices better than usual. If you can wait a bit to make a reservation,
your patience may be rewarded with a bargain (try www.stayaspensnowmass.com/p-last-minute-specials.php). Or, try the individual websites of several hotels; sometimes they advertise their very best rates there first. In some cases, calling the hotel may get you the
best price of all. A simple question, “Are there any discounts that might apply?” may easily get you ten percent off. And don’t forget your AAA membership or your AARP card. There you have it: where to eat, stay and play in Aspen, for a reasonable price. You can hobnob with celebrities and live like the other half lives – at least for a few winter days.

In addition to writing The Enlightened Tourist column for Nexus, freelance writer Wendy Underhill has written features and investigative reports on a number of diverse topics.