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May/June 2010
the enlightened tourist

by Wendy Underhill

Run like a Lyon
Lyons is ready now for running, hiking & biking

In the spring, most of us Coloradans are eager to start trail-tromping. But some of us – you know who you are – may not be quite ready for the high country. If you’ve allowed watching the Olympics to replace participatory sports over the winter, you’ll need a bit of prep before heading to the high country. And the trails above 10,000 feet aren’t yet ready for foot traffic anyway.

What to do in the meantime? I propose getting your trail legs back in shape by visiting Lyons, on the cusp of the front range in northern Boulder County. In this peaceful little burg of 2000 inhabitants, the women are athletic, the drivers respectful, and the trails above average. Way above average. In other words, Lyons is a great place to bring your legs out of hibernation. From here, the trail running – or walking or hiking – is superb. And plentiful: unless you’re an ultra runner, you’ll need more than one weekend to exhaust the possibilities.

Though easy trails abound, if you’re starting your season, or are adding trails for the first time to a regimen of road-running, take it easy.  Watch where you place your feet, reduce your mileage since the terrain is rougher, and stay present in your best mindful way (leave the MP3 player in the car). The last thing you want is an injury before the truly glorious days of midsummer arrive. Avoid injuring the trail, too.  If it’s muddy, run somewhere else or go straight through the goo of it. Your shoes can be hosed off; the damage caused by mud-phobic visitors isn’t as easily reversed.

I got the low-down on Lyons from one of its regular runners:  Neil Sullivan, owner of the St. Vrain Market at the corner of Main Street and Fifth Avenue. The stone building has housed a grocery ever since 1902, but Sullivan bought it just last year and dramatically changed its ambiance and merchandise. It’s now a natural foods store, with an emphasis on local products, sandwiches to go, and baked-on-site goodies. It’s an ideal running headquarters, offering both fuel and local wisdom. 

A sample of the latter: “Here’s one of the best secret running tips in this town: the river. It is glacier-fed, so in the summer it’s the best place to put a hot, sweaty, tired set of feet.” You may be able to rent a tube for a leisurely river float, too.

Sullivan, a marathoner, gave me a few route suggestions. The first: download maps of Heil Valley and Hall Ranch (www.bouldercounty.org/openspace/) and get yourself oriented.  On Hall Ranch, use the Nighthawk Trail. Bikes are prohibited here, and the trail avoids going up and over the ridge. As Sullivan reported, “You can walk it with a three-year-old.” Or, you can connect it to other trails for as challenging an adventure as your legs can tolerate. 

The next day, go to Button Rock Preserve (ci.longmont.co.us/parks/fishing/buttonrock.htm), just a few miles northwest of town.  The road is gated about two miles below the dam of Ralph Price Reservoir, so you’ve got a nice car-free, riverside run up to the base of the dam.  We loved the water jetting out the spillway. If you want more exertion, try the Lazy Lion Trail that connects to Hall Ranch.  (Though Sullivan says it’s not an overly lazy option.)
If you’re lucky and have a buddy who will swap car keys with you or pick you up at the far end, choose a through-route. One option at Heil Valley Ranch begins (or ends) at the Geer Canyon trailhead, towards Boulder. The trail climbs from there to a ridge, and then runs along it for a couple of miles before dropping you gradually down right into Bohn Park in Lyons. Ponderosas, abandoned sandstone cabins, and a rusting Volkswagen bug make the nine miles go by quickly.

If those trails are too steep, too muddy, or too technical (that’s runnerspeak for rocky and uneven), use Apple Valley Road—it’s tree-lined for the most part, and paved.  Sullivan assures me that it has very few cars and makes a nice out-and-back.  Or try the creek path that follows the North St. Vrain Creek through town.  It can be accessed from many spots, and one of them is just a block from the St. Vrain Market.

It’s hard to build a runner’s retreat on just running, so sample other local offerings: stroll the Lyons Outdoor Market, every Saturday downtown, for a peek into small town living. Plan for the Lyons Outdoor Games (June 11 through 13), where a  whitewater rodeo and chainsaw carving competition entertain those who care to “run on by.” Or, just stroll the downtown shops.  Antiques are the main draw, but the Classic Pinball Company is fascinating.  I have no particular interest in pinball, but it is always intriguing to be in the company of an aficionado of any stripe.

For an eclectic, whimsical mix of greeting cards, jewelry, candles and yard art stroll on over to the White Lion (thewhitelionshop.com). You’ll find the perfect gift for a loved one or yourself. If you’re in the mood for a pick-me-up an espresso at the Stone Cup Café just a few doors down is a must. Especially if it’s a Wednesday or a Sunday when their infamous fresh-baked cinnamon rolls fill the café with aromas of succulent spice. And you can sip and relax guilt-free knowing that every step possible has been made to reduce the café’s impact on the environment. Check out their website to see how they do it (thestonecup.com).

As for lodging, aim for rustic coziness. The Gatehouse at Apple Valley Farmstead (www.applevalleyfarmstead.com) is a recently renovated, 312-square-foot cabin that sits next to the owner’s home. Guests can relax on the patio, next to the koi ponds, along the riverfront, or in  the gardens.

Or try the rustic rooms  of the Rock n’ River Resorts (rocknriver.com). While it’s been a hostelry for decades, the addition of the Ciatano Winery has distinguished this place from other family resorts nearby. Visitors are welcome to see whatever is going on in the wine-making business;  I encourage you to ask to see the root cellar where the red wine is aging in wooden barrels. The smell will put a spring in a tired runner’s step! At cocktail hour, the pouring room comes alive. For five dollars, you may try five varieties; these, along with your choice of cheeses, smoked fish, crackers, and more from the deli case, are a well-deserved runner’s reward.  Another nice touch at Rock n’ River: a small-scale spa, La Bellezza. This is available to day visitors, too, of course – and what trail runner couldn’t do with a bit of bodily self-indulgence?

If you’re ready for a celebratory meal, try the newly re-opened Cilantro Mary’s for a margarita and meal that is hand-made fresh to order, delivering a taste rarely found in any Mexican restaurant in the states. They also offer vegetarian dishes that even the meat lover will enjoy (cilantromarys.com). Another option nearby is the Fawn Brook Inn located in a quaint log cabin nestled in the town of Allenspark. The Groicher family have been known not only for Hermann’s fine food, but also for their hospitality. Reservations recommended (fawnbrookinn.com).

Runners aren’t noted for late-night carousing, but if you do have a little life left in you, Oskar Blues is the place to be.  Go for the music, the beer (Dale’s Pale Ale comes from this microbrewery), and the atmosphere; the food is decent, too. 

As for the music, let them surprise you with whoever is playing; it’s likely to be bluegrass, Cajun, the blues, or an eclectic open mic. Just don’t stay out late; you came for the running, and there’s more to be done the next day!


In addition to writing The Enlightened Tourist column for Nexus, freelance writer Wendy Underhill has written features and investigative reports on a number of diverse topics.

 

 

 

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