– until you head to Ouray, where the water runs both hot and cold in the winter.

This small (population 4,560) southwestern Colorado town has two claims to winter fame: steamy water in the luxurious and roomy hot springs, and frozen water against the side of spectacular cliffs in the Ouray Ice Park. Each alone might be worth the six-hour trip from Denver; combined, they’re almost worth making the trip from anywhere in the world. (About the town’s name: is it “oo-ray” or “you-ray”? Though confusion and disagreement abound, according to the Ouray County Historical Society, the correct pronunciation is “you-ray.”)

Before 1994 – when local geniuses arranged to spray water on the rock walls of a gorge south of town to form blue ice – Ouray could hardly feed a hungry traveler in winter. Now it’s a year-round tourist destination. You might think that there couldn’t possibly be enough ice climbers to make an economic impact, but you’d be wrong. This fast-growing sport skyrocketed in recent years, after advances in equipment design and the opening of more sport climbing sites like Ouray’s.

You might also think that ice climbers are adrenaline-seeking death-wishers, but again you’d be wrong. Local guide and instructor, Chad Peele, claims that ice climbing is for everybody, and proves his point by mentioning that he’s taken his grandmother up, and she loves to tell the tale. (Peele’s mountaineering resume is too long to recite. Just know that even though it’s impressive, he is still a really nice person, and worth looking up if you’re in this small burg.)

One of the hardest things about ice climbing is getting fully outfitted, which can cost upwards of $750. Other than that, Peele says, “It’s easier than rock climbing. With rock climbing, you have to shift your body to match the holds in the terrain, but with ice climbing, you can make your own holds. All you have to do is learn good form and learn the technique, and then repeat, repeat, repeat.”

It’s an adventure everyone should try at least once – but unless you’re skilled at the sport, don’t even consider using your own boots and crampons; gear is evolving so quickly, and is now so specialized, that renting is the only way to go. A day’s worth of gear (ice boots, crampons, ice tools, helmet, harness, ropes) and an instructor will run you about $350. Then bundle up. Peele says the motto in his field is, “There’s no such thing as bad weather. Just bad clothes.”

From then on, just say “yes” to anything the guide suggests. He or she will give you the park tour, show you the ropes (literally and figuratively), and find a climb that is at your thrill and skill level. With four metal grippy things, one on each of your limbs, and a heart racing from excitement, you’ll be surprised that you have the power to go up some pretty slippery slopes.

After your first day, you’ll be ready to go it alone for the next day or two. You could drive over to Lake City, where a smaller ice park awaits – it’s free and there are no crowds, but also no rentals or guides. Or ask for directions to naturally occurring ice falls, of which there are many in the area.

For those who don’t want to climb ice no matter how fun it’s said to be, indulge your inner voyeur. The ice formations are visually amazing. Instead of just one frozen waterfall, the park has dozens building on top of each other. Plan a visit, and prepare to ooh and ahh. Then there are the climbers. During the Ouray Ice Festival from January 6 to 9, the world’s best climbers scamper up and over overhanging ice shelves – and they’re doing it all in a row, all at once. Grab a hot drink in town, and then enjoy the sights from one of the observation decks inside the park.

If you’re needing something more invigorating than watching other people strain and move, spend your day snowshoeing or cross-country skiing in the area. On occasion, the Ouray Historical Museum hosts winter snowshoe trips to historic sites. The staff at every gear shop, coffee shop, or gift store will probably have a favorite route to offer.

When you’re done with ice and snow, soothing hot springs welcome you back to town. Just look for the steam rising off the pool at the north end. It’s basically a huge year-round swimming pool, with natural hot water in abundance. Or, go to the Wiesbaden Hot Springs, where vapor caves are accessed from inside a small lodge of the same name.

As for Peele, his personal favorite hot springs is near Ridgway. Orvis Hot Springs has many pools of various sizes and temperatures, and a clothing-optional policy at least some of the time. For a conversation starter, ask locals where is their favorite soak, and why.

And that’s it. Once you’ve been to Ouray in the winter, you’ll want to “repeat, repeat, repeat.”

In addition to writing The Enlightened Tourist column for Nexus, freelance writer Wendy Underhill has written features and investigative reports on a number of diverse topics.