My husband and I were married in September 1987, and over the last 24 years, we’ve become well-acquainted with fall anniversary getaways. One of our favorite romantic spots seems improbable at first, a far cry from sun-drenched beaches or exotic, far-flung locales. It’s none other than Estes Park. Amidst the taffy and curio shops, the blown glass emporiums and the mini-golf course are gorgeous hikes, a host of historic (and romantic) inns, and happily mating elk. The wildlife is passionate all through September and October, and quite vocal about it; maybe we can take a lesson from them (though bugling – the fervent and heated cry of elk mating – is optional.)

As for hiking and hotels, putting these together in an inn-to-inn hiking trip might be just what the doctor ordered, whether that doctor is a cardiologist who urges you to get more exercise or a sexologist who recommends more “together time.” The Walter Tishma Way is just such a trip (contact the Warming House, a hiking outfitter in Estes Park, for details, warminghouse.com). Guided or unguided, this multi-day saunter starts right in the heart of Estes Park, and then moves to other inns, such as Marys Lake Lodge and the Allenspark Lodge, and almost always the Baldpate Inn.

The Baldpate has been housing visitors since 1913. I love everything about it – its back story, its access to Twin Sisters Peak, its simple soup, salad and dessert lunches. But take note that this historic lodge also offers European-style accommodations – code for “the bathroom’s down the hall.” And it’s shared. For some, that might dampen libidinous spirits.

The Baldpate is just one of many surviving lodges in Estes Park. The oldest is the Elkhorn, which began receiving guests in 1874. More recently (and sadly) it has been named one of Colorado’s Endangered Places by Colorado Preservation, Inc. The 36 buildings look just fine, but the owner is ready to sell and a buyer is putting together a proposal that includes a ski area, something Estes hasn’t seen in a generation. The manager is hoping to put together a consortium to make a counter-offer, but so far the money isn’t adding up. Because changes are afoot, that makes fall 2011 an excellent time to experience rustic luxury at the Elkhorn, even if you just stop in for a tour given by the volunteer staff. (Yes, people love it so much that they volunteer their time in exchange for room and board.)

For luxury that doesn’t need any qualifying adjectives, the Stanley Hotel is just the place. This grand establishment was built in 1909 by F.O. Stanley, of Stanley Steamer fame, as a destination for the new sport of auto touring. It’s been maintained beautifully and can offer a twosome far more comforts than home. For me, just strolling the grounds or taking one of the official tours provides a pleasing way to get the juices flowing.

Where you stay may be the “main course” for a weekend tryst, but the side dishes are important too. Given my sweetie’s predilections, chocolate is always on our list, and we found superb made-on-the-premises dark chocolate fudge at Home for the Holidays; it’s the perfect alcohol-free aphrodisiac.

Speaking of alcohol, wine is more my thing, so we were sure to include a visit to Snowy Peaks, Estes Park’s own winery. The grapes are imported from more temperate climes, then processed on the premises. Stop in for a visit, and bring a bottle of local vino back to your room.

And for the trifecta of romance, contact Don Gardner, of Tender Grass Carriages. He’s prepared to procure the sweets and the drinks, and pick you up for a ride in his Percheron-drawn carriage. He assures me that he wears blinders, figuratively speaking, so what goes on in the carriage, stays in the carriage.

For the greatest aphrodisiac of all – conversation – it’s strictly BYO. (Gentlemen, are you listening?) Be prepared to ask each other open-ended questions that lead to surprises, intimacy, and more amour. Try these, if you’re stumped: “How would you like me to show my love for you?” “What makes a person unforgettable?” “What is falling in love like for you?”

I’ll close with my best wishes for a frolicking good time, and with just one more detail about the elk. The bulls, after they’re finally mature enough to have gathered a fulsome harem, are so harried by servicing them and protecting them from rogue elk, that they often die that winter. Now that’s tough love.

Trip tips
Romantic Restaurants
Good places for candlelight, cocktails, and conversation.

Inn of Glen Haven
Take a short drive to this antique-filled log lodge; the dining room serves traditional fare, but the early dining menu has romance written all over it, with melted brie, scallops Rockefeller, and crab-stuffed mushrooms. Innofglenhaven.com, 970-586-3897

Twin Owls Steakhouse
Yet another rustic inn, this one now provides some of the best steaks (and best views) in Estes Park. Twinowls.net, 970-586-9344

Love-inspiring Lodging
Setting the mood, from historic rustic charm to relaxing modern comfort

Elkhorn Lodge
This ranch predates Estes Park itself, with the original buildings constructed in 1871. Think of Old Faithful Lodge, scale it back to one-eighth the size, and that’s the Elkhorn. But the real excitement here is the staff – mostly volunteers – who truly get to know the clients. So if you want stories of ghosts and cowboy music by the fire, this is your place. Elkhornlodge.org , 970-586-4416

Stanley Hotel
Stories of ghosts are common; ask about stories of romance as well.
Stanleyhotel.com, 970-577-4110

Baldpate Inn
One of the best parts of staying at the Baldpate is meeting the owner, Lois Smith. She’s a joyous person who gives the hospitality industry a good name. Baldpateinn.com, 970-586-6151

Other amorous offerings

Snowy Peaks Winery
Go for a tasting, take a bottle back to your room.
Snowypeakswinery.com 970-586-2099

Home for the Holidays
Homemade fudge and other treats
Shophomefortheholidays.com 970-577-0173

Tender Grass Carriages
For romantic (and discreet) horse-drawn carriage rides.
tender_grass_carriage@yahoo.com, 970-691-1990

In addition to writing The Enlightened Tourist column for Nexus, freelance writer Wendy Underhill has written features and investigative reports on a number of diverse topics.